MOSTAR

Mostar (službeni naziv: Grad Mostar) je grad u Bosni i Hercegovini, kulturno i privredno središte Hercegovine te upravno sjedište Hercegovačko-Neretvanskog kantona. Ime je dobio po čuvarima mostova (mostarima), na obalama rijeke Neretve. Grad je poznat po čuvenom Starom mostu, izgrađenom u 16. stoljeću, kojeg su srušile snage HVO-a 9. novembra 1993., da bi nakon rata 2004. godine most ponovo bio izgrađen. Stari most je prvi kulturni spomenik u Bosni i Hercegovini koji se nalazi na UNESCO-voj listi zaštićenih spomenika kulture svijeta.

Grad je najveći urbani centar u Hercegovini i peti grad po veličini u Bosni i Hercegovini. Prema popisu iz 1991. godine imao je 75.865 stanovnika. Danas je broj stanovnika u samom gradu nešto manji i iznosi 64.301. U cijeloj općini, prema procjenama Zavoda za statistiku Federacije Bosne i Hercegovine iz 2003. godine, ukupno živi 105.448 ljudi. Od toga, 50.019 Bošnjaka, 50.929 Hrvata, 3.644 Srba, i 856 ostalih. Okolina urbane zone je veoma naseljena, sa bogatim naseljima poput naselja Potoci (2921 stanovnika 1991. god.), Vrapčići (3461 stanovnika 1991. god.), i Rodoč (4499 stanovnika 1991. god.).

Historija

Stari most je jedna od najvećih turističkih atrakcija Bosne i Hercegovine
Stari dio Mostara
Predhistorijsko doba
Šire područje današnjeg Mostara bilo je naseljeno još u predhistorijskom vremenu, što potvrđuju brojna nalazišta (više od 150) iz neolitika, bakrenog, brončanog i željeznog doba. Među njima su naseljene pećine, grobovi, oružje, predrimski novac i sl. Uz stočarstvo i zemljoradnju u željeznom se dobu razvija i trgovina s okolnim središtima.

Rimsko doba
Za vrijeme rimske uprave područje su naseljavala ilirska plemena, a administrativno je pripadao dalmatinskoj provinciji. U to doba nastaju i ceste u dolini Neretve. Bazilika iz IV - VI stoljeća u Cimu (danas dio Mostara) vjerojatno je bila sjedište biskupije Sarsenterum, koja se nalazila na području današnje Hercegovine.

Srednji vijek
Novo razdoblje nastaje padom Rimskog carstva i doseljenjem Slavena. Tokom ranog srednjeg vijeka područje Mostara pripadalo je pokrajini Zahumlje (Hum). Unatoč vrhovnoj vlasti Franaka, ovi su krajevi imali određeni stepen samostalnosti, posebice za kneza Mihajla Viševića (910. - 950.). Područjem su jedno vrijeme vladali Nemanjići, zatim bosanski ban, a tokom XIV - XV. stoljeća sve su snažniji humski knezovi. Jedan od njih - Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, koji je stolovao u Blagaju pored Mostara 1448. dobiva naslov hercega (odatle i naziv Hercegovina).

Osnutak grada Mostara vezan je uz izgradnju dviju kula/utvrda, sredinom XV stoljeća, vjerojatno u doba Hercega Stjepana. Utvrda na desnoj obali Neretve zvala se Tara, a na lijevoj Helebija. KULA HERCEGUŠA je sagrađena neposredno uz kulu Taru. Služila je u odbrambene svrhe, a i za čuvanje nekadašnjeg visećeg drvenog mosta. Izgrađena je za vrijeme Herceg Stjepana, po kome je dobila i ime.

I prvi pisani spomen Mostara vezan je uz ove dvije kule: dubrovački izvještaj od 3. aprila 1452. opisuje kako se Vladislav Hercegović pobunio protiv oca Stjepana, otevši mu neke posjede. U izvještaju stoji: "ha preso quello di ... Blagay et do castelli al ponte de Neretva (uzeo je ... Blagaj i dvije utvrde na mostu na Neretvi).

Ime Mostar prvi se put pojavljuje u osmanskom popisu stanovništva iz 1468.-1469., a da se ono odnosi na naselje oko dviju kula na Neretvi jasno je iz jednog dokumenta sa sjednice vijeća Dubrovačke Republike 1474., što ga svrstava u relativno starija naselja Hercegovine. Od njega su stariji Blagaj (1297.) i Gacko (1176), koje se prvi put spominje kao glavno središte trgovačkih puteva, razvijenim zanatstvom i trgovinom. Predstavljao je glavno središte Hercegovine, Bosne i Zete.

Osmansko doba

Najljepša džamija u Hercegovini: Karađoz-begova džamija u MostaruOsmanlije su osvojile Mostar vjerojatno 1468. godine. U Mostaru je tada boravilo oko 35 osmanlijskih vojnika, kojima su podijeljeni posjedi, a zatečeni stanovnici su postali kmetovi. Isprva središte kajmakamluka, Mostar je zahvaljujući prometnoj važnosti prijelaza preko Neretve početkom XVI. stoljeća postao sjedištem hercegovačkog sandžaka. Godine 1566. dotadašnji drveni most zamijenjen je kamenim; odluci je doprinio administrativni i prometni razvoj grada.

U XVI i XVII stoljeću bilježi se intenzivno širenja grada. Krajem ovog razdoblja Mostar je imao oko 10.000 stanovnika. Grad se razvijao kao tipično osmanlijsko naselje, s karakterističnim stambenih četvrtima - mahalama, i trgovačkom četvrti - čaršijom. Tokom XVIII stoljeća došlo je do stagnacije i pada broja stanovnika.

Godine 1833. osnovan je poseban hercegovački pašaluk, sa sjedištem u Mostaru, na čelu s Ali-pašom Rizvanbegovićem, koji je dobio i vezirski naslov. Otvoreni su i konzulati nekih zemalja, poput Austrije, Italije, Rusije, Velike Britanije i Francuske. Prometnom značaju pridonijela je izgradnja ceste Mostar-Metković 1862.

Austro-ugarsko doba
Baš kao i doba turske vladavine i doba Austro-ugarske je ostavilo veliki trag na Mostar.U ovom periodu je izgrađeno dosta zgrada evropskog stila,pa je tako i Mostar sve više počeo ličiti na srednjevropski grad.Građevine orijentalnog stila su se sve više počele mješati sa zgradama austro-ugarske gradnje i to je činilo jedan veoma zanimljiv spoj. Velik broj građevina u doba Austro-ugarske je izgrađen na Glavnoj ulici u Mostaru (današnji dio Ul.Maršala Tita). Jedna od najlješih građevina ovog stila je mostarska gimnazija(Gimnazija Mostar) koja podsjeća na sarajevsku gradsku vijećnicu. Najpoznatiji gradonačelnik Mostara svih vremena Mujaga Komadina je dio mostarske historije austro-ugarskog perioda.

20. vijek
Najznačajnije promjene u Mostaru su se desile baš u ovom periodu. Mostar je tada bio u sastavu Kraljevine SHS/Jugoslavije, Nezavisne Države Hrvatske te socijalističke Jugoslavije (DFJ,FNRJ,SFRJ). Mostar je također u Drugom svjetskom ratu dao dosta narodih heroja. Do 1991.godine Mostar je bio mješavina kultura, naroda, vjera, civilizacija. Po tome je upravo i bio jedan od najpoznatijih gradova u bivšoj Jugoslaviji. Bio je čist dokaz kako različiti narodi mogu živjeti jedni pored drugih i jedni sa drugim u miru stvarajući jedinstven mostarski mentalitet. Posljednjih 10 godina 20. stoljeća su bile najbolnije za Mostar. Pored Sarajeva Mostar je doživio najveću ratnu tragediju. 1992. i 1993. godine je ličio na Hirošimu,a 1993. godina je vjerovatno jedna od najmračnijih u historiji grada Mostara. Te godine je zahvaljujući nacionalističkim idejama i djelovanjima došlo do sukoba među Mostarcima različitih etničnosti (Hrvata i Bošnjaka). Bošnjaci su protjerani u istočni dio grada, a Hrvati su ostali u zapadnom djelu grada kasnije samoprozvanom Zapadnom Mostaru. Tako je do dan danas. Mostar je zahvaljujući ratu 1992-1995 dobio dvije homogene cjeline (bošnjačku i hrvatsku pod nazivom Zapadni Mostar) dok je broj mostarskih Srba u gradu sveden na minimun. Mostar je također zahvaljujući ratu do dan danas najrazrušeniji grad u BiH gdje se ističu Bulevar Narodne Revolucije (BNR) te Ulica Maršala Tita.

Početak novog milenija
Najznačajnija dešavanja u ovom periodu su: 1.Obnova Starog mosta i vraćanje stare gradske jezgre na listu UNESCO-a. 2.Donošenje "Novog statuta Grada Mostara" čime je Mostar administrativno ujedninjen grad.

Geografija

Bulevar narodne revolucije(BNR)je i dan danas linija razdvajanja istočnog i zapadnog dijela gradaMostar se nalazi na jugu Bosne i Hercegovine, tačnije rečeno nalazi se u centru Hercegovine. Gradsko područje(Mostar i njegova okolina) se geografski može opisati kao čvorište sjeverne, zapadne i istočne Hercegovine. Kroz centar grada se proteže kanjon rijeke Neretve pa je Mostar poznat i pod nadimkom "grad na rijeci Neretvi". Najpoznatija brda okolo mostarske kotline su Hum, Stolac, Fortica, Žovnica i Brkanovo brdo.Dvije najpoznatije planine koje se nalaze u blizini Mostara su Velež i Prenj. Mostar je kao i većina hercegovačih gradova veoma krševit.

Klima
Klima u Mostaru se u posljednjih desetak godina primjetno mjenja. Uopćeno govoreći Mostar ima umjerenu sredozemnu klimu s blažim, ali hladnim zimama (uz malo ili nimalo snijega), te veoma vrućim ljetima gdje temperature u hladu znaju iznositi i do 45 stepeni celzijusa. Zbog toga je Mostar bio najtopliji grad u bivšoj Jugoslaviji, a danas Bosni i Hercegovini. Prije izrazito sušna klima danas je sve vlažnija i vlažnija što ljetne vrućine čini nesnošnjivim i često zrelim za proglašavanjem elementarne nepogode. Kako bilo da bilo, Mostar ipak ima ugodnu klimu pogodnu za uzgoj različitih vrsta voća. Jeseni i proljeća u Mostaru znaju biti izrazito kišoviti. U proljeće kad nema kiše Mostar izgleda najljepše što je često znala biti inspiracija za mostarske pjesnike.

Privreda
Prije posljednjeg rata Mostar je bio jedan od jačih privrednih središta bivše Jugoslavije (Aluminijski kombinat, "Soko", "Hepok" kasnije "Apro", "Mostarska vinarija", Fabrika duhana Mostar, hidroelektrane na Neretvi, "Unis", Rudnik mrkog uglja itd). Ratne destrukcije su uništili privredu Mostara, pogotovo u njegovom istočnom dijelu. Turizam je jedna od najrazvijenijih grana privrede u Mostaru, pogotovo nakon što je stara gradska jezgra primljena na listu UNESCO-a.

Stanovništvo

Mapa uže urbane zone Grada Mostara Glavni članci: Demografija Mostara i Spisak naseljenih mjesta u Mostaru

Po posljednjem službenom popisu stanovništva iz 1991. godine, općina Mostar imala je 126.628 stanovnika, raspoređenih u 57 naselja.

Nacionalni sastav stanovništva - općina Mostar, popis 1991.
ukupno: 126.628

Bošnjaci - 43.856 (34,63%)
Hrvati - 43.037 (33,98%)
Srbi - 23.846 (18,83%)
Jugoslaveni - 12.768 (10,08%)
ostali, neopredijeljeni i nepoznato - 3.121 (2,48%)

Nacionalni sastav stanovništva - Grad Mostar, popis 1991.
ukupno: 75.865

Bošnjaci - 25.929 (34,17%)
Hrvati - 21.795 (28,72%)
Srbi - 14.142 (18,64%)
Jugoslaveni - 11.555 (15,23%)
ostali, neopredijeljeni i nepoznato - 2.444 (3,24%)

Kultura

Centar za kulturu "Mostar"
Dom kulture "herceg Stjepan Kosača"
Omladinski kulturni centar "Abrašević"
Muzički centar "Pavarotti-Mostar"
Arhiv Hercegovine(danas kantonalni arhiv)
Muzej Hercegovine
Gradska biblioteka "herceg Stjepan Kosača"
Dječja biblioteka
Gradska biblioteka "Luka"
Narodno pozorište u Mostaru
Hrvatsko narodno pozorište "HNK-Mostar"
Kuća Alekse Šantića
Gradski hor Mostar
Francuski kulturni centar

Kulturni događaji
"Mostarsko ljeto", gdje se ističu "Šantićeve večeri poezije", "Mostarski ljetni festival" te "Festival horova/ansambala BIH".
"Mostarsko proljeće" je značajna kulturna manifestacija, koju organizuje Matica Hrvatska Mostar i koja se održava svake godine tokom proljeća i ljeta.
"Festival horova/ansambala BiH" je kulturna manifesticija koju organizuje Gradski hor Mostar i koja se realizuje svake godine u septembru mjesecu. Na festivalu učestvuju horovi iz BiH.
Festival komedije Bosne i Hercegovine "Mostarska liska" kojeg je pokrenulo Narodno pozorište u Mostaru 1991. godine, a inicijator Festivala je bio režiser Ahmet Obradović.

Sport

Najveći uspjeh mostarskog fudbala:FK Velež kup-šampion JugoslavijeNajpoznatiji sport u Mostaru je nogomet. Najpoznatiji mostarski nogometni klub je FK Velež,a od 1992.godine obnovljen je i rad HŠK Zrinjskog, te i ovaj klub ima sve veći značaj u Mostaru. Najveći uspjesi mostarskih nogometnih klubova je taj da je Velež bio dva puta kup-šampion bivše Jugoslavije(1981. i 1986.), te da je Zrinjski bio liga-šampion Bosne i Hercegovine(2005.). U Mostaru uvijek vlada svečana atmosfera prilikom odigravanja tradicionalnog derbija Velež-Zrinjski.

FK Velež Mostar
HŠK Zrinjski Mostar
Pored nogometa u Mostaru najpoznatiji je ekstremni sport skokovi sa Starog mosta u Neretvu. Skokovi sa Starog mosta i najpoznatiji mostarski skok laste predstavljaju pored Starog mosta, FK Veleža i igranja tavle najsvetiji dio mostarske tradicije. Takmičenje u skokovima sa mosta se organizuju tradicinalno svake godine sredinom ljeta (krajem jula) pod nazivom "Ikari", a skokove organizuje Klub skakača u rijeku Neretvu "Mostari". Do 2005. godine u Mostaru se ovo takmičenje organizovalo preko 460 puta. Važnost ovog takmičenja pokazuje i to da takmičenje obavezno prenosi državna televizija ili neka od najjačih komercijalnih televizija u zemlji, a ovi skokovi slove za jedne od najvažnijih sportskih događaja bh. današnjice.

Jedan od sportova koji je dosta popularan u Mostaru je karate. U samom gradu egzistira oko 25 karate klubova. Pored karatea zastupljeni su i:plivanje, tenis, košarka, rukomet, džudo, boks, kajakaštvo.

Promet
Najznačajnija prometnica koja prolazi kroz Mostar je magistralni put M-17. Mostar ima dvije autobusne i jednu željezničku stanicu. Javni autobusni saobraćaj u Mostaru obavlja preduzeće MOBUS(Mostar Bus) koja radi pod Gradskom upravom. Mostar takođe ima Internacionalni aerodrom koji se nalazi u naselju Ortiješ.

Poznate ličnosti

Aleksa Šantić, pjesnik
Alija Kebo, pisac
Almir Zalihić, pisac
Blaž Slišković, nogometaš i trener
Jadranko Fink i Goran Fink (Braća Fink), skakači
Dražen Dalipagić, košarkaš
Duško Bajević, nogometaš
Džemal Bijedić, političar
Edo Kajan, alpinista
Emir Balić, skakač
Enver Marić, nogometaš
Faruk Ćupina,advokat i trener
Franjo Vladić, nogometaš
Haldun Leo Hrvić, nogometaš
Hamza Humo, pisac
Himzo Polovina, pjevač
Ibrahim Braca Dilberović
Ico Voljevica, slikar
Jasna Merdan, rukometašica
Josip Jole Musa
Ljubo Bešlić, gradonačelnik
Meha Sefić
Meho Džeger, zabavljač
Meho Kodro, nogometaš
Mili Hadžiabdić
Mišo Marić, pjesnik
Muhamed Mujić, nogometaš
Mujaga Komadina, gradonačelnik
Murat Ćorić, političar
Osman Đikić, pisac
Peko Dilberović
Pero Zubac, pisac
Predrag Matvejević
Bobo Samardzic, slikar
Safet Oručević, gradonačelnik
Salko Curic, karataš
Sejo Kajtaz, nogometaš
Semir Tuce, nogometaš
Senad Glavović
Sergej Barbarez, nogometaš
Sergej Trifunović, glumac
Sulejman Sula Rebac, nogometaš
Svetozar Ćorović, pisac
Vahid Halilhodžić,nogometaš i trener
Vasa Kisa
Vlado Puljic, slikar
Vladimir Ćorović
Zdravko Grebo, kritičar

Turizam
Grad Mostar jedan je od najvećih urbanih turističkih centara u Bosni i Hercegovini. Njegove najpoznatije znamenitosti su:

Stari grad - historijska četvrt Grada sa Starim mostom i nizom ostalih sadržaja iz bogate historije grada
Karađozbegova džamija
Franjevačka crkva, s najvišim zvonikom u Bosni i Hercegovini
Bišćevića sokak, sa poznatom Turskom kućom
Historijsko naselje Brankovac, sa kućama i avlijama starih mostarskih porodica, građeno u osmanskom stilu
Staro naselje Blagaj sa Vrelom Bune, čuvenom blagajskom Tekijom, te starim gradom osnivača Hercegovine herceg Stjepana Kosače
Park prirode "Ruište" na planini Prenj, poznat po endemskoj vrsti munike, kao i endemskoj vrsti bosanskog ljiljana
Rezervat prirode "Diva Grabovica", skoro netaknuta priroda
Mostarsko blato, park prirode na zapadu Grada Mostara
Kuća Alekse Šantića, velikana bh. pjesništva
Muzej Hercegovine

MOSTAR

Mostar (Мостар) is a city and municipality in Bosnia and Herzegovina, the center of the Herzegovina-Neretva Canton of the Federation. Mostar is situated on the Neretva river and is the fifth-largest city in the country. Mostar was named after its Old Bridge (Stari most) and the towers on its sides, "the bridge keepers" (natively: mostari). The bridge was destroyed by Croatian Defence Council units during the Bosnian War, on November 9, 1993 at 10.15 am. Slobodan Praljak, the commander of Croat forces is on trial at the ICTY on charges of the bridge destruction among others.[1]

Demographics

1971
89,580 total

Bosniaks (i.e. Bosnian Muslims) - 33,645 (37,55%)
Croats - 32,782 (36,59%)
Serbs - 19,076 (21,29%)
Yugoslavs - 2,329 (2,59%)
others - 1,748 (1,98%)

1991
In 1991, population of Mostar municipality numbered 126,628 people, including:

Bosniaks: 43,856 (34.63%)
Croats: 43,037 (33.98%)
Serbs: 23,846 (18.83%)
Yugoslavs: 12,768 (10.08%)
others: 3,121 (2.48%)

2005
In 2005 the municipality of Mostar had a population of 127,066. The political control of the ethnically divided city is equally shared between Croats and Bosniaks.

The city has had a carefully elaborated policy of national equality ever since the end of the war. The Croat and Bosniak ethnic communities each claim one side of the river and even support for the local football clubs, Zrinjski and Velež, is divided along ethnic lines. One Bosnian politician called Mostar "divided by a wall between Croats and Bosniaks" in an interview to RTV Slovenia. The number of Serbs remaining in the city is negligible.

History

Early history
The names of two towns appear in mediaeval historical sources, along with their later mediaeval territories and properties – the towns of Nebojša and Cimski grad. In the early 15th century the late mediaeval župa (county) of Večenike covered the site of present-day Mostar along the right bank of the Neretva: Zahum, Cim, Ilići, Hraštani and Vojno. It was at the centre of this area, which belonged to the Radivojević's in 1408, that Cim fort was built prior to 1443; it is referred to in a charter of King Alphonse V dating from 1454 as Pons (Bridge), for a bridge had already been built there. Prior to 1444, the Nebojša fort was built on the left bank of the Neretva, which belonged to the late mediaeval župa still known as Večenike or Večerić (Anđelić, 1974, 276-278). The earliest documentary reference to Mostar as a settlement dates from 3 April 1452, when natives of Dubrovnik wrote to their fellow countrymen in the service of Đorđe Branković to say that Vladislav Hercegović had turned against his father and occupied Blagaj and other places, including “Duo Castelli al ponte de Neretua.” (Mujezinović, 1998, p. 144). In 1468 Mostar came under Ottoman rule (Mujezinović, 1998, p. 144). The urbanization of the settlement began, following the unwritten oriental rule, with a čaršija – the crafts and commercial centre of the settlement – and mahalas or residential quarters. In 1468 Mostar acquired the name Köpruhisar, meaning fortress on the water, at the centre of which was a cluster of 15 houses (Institute for Regional Planning, Mostar, 1982, p. 21). In the late 16th century, Mostar was the chief administrative city for the Ottoman Empire in the Herzegovina region. The Austro-Hungarian Empire absorbed Mostar in 1878 and then it became part of Yugoslavia in the aftermath of World War I. Since 1881 Mostar has been the seat of the Bishopric of Mostar-Duvno. The city's symbol, "The Old Bridge" (Stari Most) is one of the most important constructions of Ottoman Era and built by the student of the famous Ottoman Architect Mimar Sinan, Mimar Hayrettin. In 1939, Mostar became a part of the Banovina of Croatia, and during the Second World War was an important city in the Independent State of Croatia.

Yugoslav Period
After World War II, Mostar developed a production of tobacco, bauxite, wine, aircraft and aluminium products. Several dams ("Grabovica", "Salakovac", "Mostar") were built in the region to harness the hydroelectric power of the Neretva. The city was a major industrial and tourist center and prospered during the time of SFRY.

Bosnian war

1992 JNA Siege
Between 1992 and 1993, after Bosnia and Herzegovina declared independence from Yugoslavia, the town was subject to an 18 month siege. The Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) first bombed Mostar on April 3, 1992 and over the following week gradually established control over a large part of the town. The Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Croatian Defence Council amassed enough strength by June 12, 1992 to force the JNA out of Mostar. The JNA responded with shelling that damaged or destroyed a number of civilian objects and resulted in a mass killing of thousands of innocent civilians. Amongst destroyed monuments were a Franciscan monastery, the Catholic cathedral and the bishop's palace, with a library of 50,000 books, as well as the Karadžoz-bey mosque, Roznamed-ij-Ibrahim-efendija mosque and twelve other mosques, as well as secular institutions.

In mid June 1992 the HVO demolished the Orthodox monastery in Žitomislići as well as the Saborna Crkva (Orthodox Cathedral Church) in Mostar, that was built in 1863-1873.During the Bosnian War of 1992-95, the Serb Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Tinity (Serbian: Саборна црква Св. Тројице) and the Church of the Birth of the Most Holy Virgin (Црква Рођења Пресвете Богородице), both dating to the mid 19th century, were demolished by the HVO.[2][3] The cathedral was also know as the New Orthodox Church (Нова православна црква), while the latter was known as the Old Orthodox Church (Стара православна црква). According to the Chairman of the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Nikola Špirić, the reconstruction of the cathedral is due to begin in Spring 2008, and will be funded by Prince Charles.[4]

Croat-Bosniak Conflict
Main article: Croat-Bosniak war
The neutrality of this section is disputed.
Please see the discussion on the talk page.
This section has been tagged since December 2007.

During the Yugoslav wars, the objectives of nationalists from Croatia were shared by Croat nationalists in Bosnia and Herzegovina.[5] The ruling party in the Republic of Croatia, the Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ), organized and controlled the branch of the party in Bosnia and Herzegovina. By the latter part of 1991, the more extreme elements of the party, under the leadership of Mate Boban, Dario Kordić, Jadranko Prlić, Ignac Koštroman and local leaders such as Anto Valenta,[5] and with the support of Franjo Tuđman and Gojko Šušak, had taken effective control of the party. On November 18, 1991, the party branch in Bosnia and Herzegovina, proclaimed the existence of the Croatian Community of Herzeg-Bosnia, as a separate "political, cultural, economic and territorial whole," on the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina. [1]

After the Serb forces were driven out from Mostar, the heavily armed, Croatia funded Croatian Defence Council (HVO) attacked Bosniaks, in hope of capturing the whole city for themselves.

Mostar was divided into a Western part, which was dominated by the Croat forces and an Eastern part where the Army of Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina was largely concentrated. However, the Bosnian Army had its headquarters in West Mostar in the basement of a building complex referred to as Vranica. In the early hours of May 9, 1993, the Croatian Defence Council attacked Mostar using artillery, mortars, heavy weapons and small arms. The HVO controlled all roads leading into Mostar and international organisations were denied access. Radio Mostar announced that all Bosniaks should hang out a white flag from their windows. The HVO attack had been well prepared and planned.[6]

The Croats took over the west side of the city and expelled thousands[1] Bosniaks from the west side into the east side of the city. The HVO shelling reduced much of the east side of Mostar to rubble. The HVO also demolished every[citation needed] bridge over the river including the Stari Most. HVO forces (and its smaller divisions) engaged in a mass execution, ethnic cleansing and rape on the Bosniak people of the West Mostar and its surrounds and a fierce siege and shelling campaign on the Bosnian Government run East Mostar. HVO campaign resulted in thousands of injured and killed.[1]

After the war, the ICTY accused the Croatian Community of Herzeg-Bosnia leadership (Jadranko Prlić, Bruno Stojić, Slobodan Praljak, Milivoj Petković, Valentin Ćorić and Berislav Pušić) on crimes against humanity charges and other war crimes charges in Mostar during the war, including the destruction of the Stari most bridge.[1]

Reconstruction

The Old Bridge reconstruction in June 2003Since the end of the wider war in 1995, great progress is being made in the reconstruction of the city of Mostar. The city was under direct monitoring from a European Union envoy, several elections were held and each nation was accommodated with regard to political control over the city. Over 15 million dollars has been spent on restoration.

A monumental project to rebuild the Old Bridge to the original design, and restore surrounding structures and historic neighbourhoods was initiated in 1999 and mostly completed by Spring 2004. The money for this reconstruction was donated by the United States, Turkey, Italy, the Netherlands, and Croatia. A grand opening was held on July 23, 2004 under heavy security.

In parallel with the restoration of the Old Bridge, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) and the World Monuments Fund (WMF) undertook a five-year long restoration and rehabilitation effort in historic Mostar.[7] Realizing early on that the reconstruction of the bridge without an in-depth rehabilitation of the surrounding historic neighbourhoods would be devoid of context and meaning, they shaped the programme in such a way as to establish a framework of urban conservation schemes and individual restoration projects that would help regenerate the most significant areas of historic Mostar, and particularly the urban tissue around the Old Bridge. The project also resulted in the establishment of the Stari grad Agency which has an important role in overseeing the ongoing implementation of the conservation plan, as well as operating and maintaining a series of restored historic buildings (including the Old Bridge complex) and promoting Mostar as a cultural and tourist destination. The official inauguration of the Stari grad Agency coincided with the opening ceremony of the Bridge.[8]

In July 2005, UNESCO finally inscribed the Old Bridge and its closest vicinity onto the World Heritage List. Previously, the inscription had been repeatedly deferred on account of poor quality of post-war reconstructions and deplorable use of modern materials in the old town.

Economy
Mostar is home to several of the nation's largest companies including the mail delivery firm Hrvatska pošta Mostar, telecomunication company Hrvatske telekomunikacije Mostar, aluminum manufacturer Aluminij and aircraft manufacturer SOKO.

City government

Mostar
Old part of MostarCurrently, the city government is equally divided Croats and Bosniaks. This means that no ethnicity controls the city, though each controls one half - Croats, the west, and Bosniaks, the east.

The City of Mostar has the status of a municipality. The city government is led by the Mayor. The current Mayor of Mostar is Ljubo Bešlić (HDZ).

The City Council is composed of 35 representatives, coming from the following political parties:

Croatian Coalition 13
Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ)
United Croatian Party of Rights (UHSP)
Croatian Party of Rights (HSP)
Croatian Christian Democratic Union (HKDU)
Croatian People's Union (HNZ)
Party of Democratic Action (SDA) 10
Social Democratic Party (SDP) 4
Party for Bosnia and Herzegovina 4
People's Party Work for Betterment 1
Croatian Coalition 1
Croatian Party of Rights (HSP)
Croatian Pure Party of Rights (HČSP)
Independent 2

Education and Culture
The oldest single arch stone bridge in Mostar, the Kriva Cuprija (Sloping Bridge), built in 1558 by the Ottoman architect Cejvan Kethoda. It is said that this was to be a test before the major construction of the Stari Most began. The Old Bridge was completed in 1566 and was hailed as one of the greatest architectural achievement in the Ottoman controlled Balkans. No matter how many times one does it, crossing the Stari most (Old Bridge) always seems to be an exciting experience. This single-arch stone bridge is an exact replica of the original bridge that stood for over 400 years and that was designed by Hajrudin, a student of the great Ottoman architect Sinan. It spans 28.7 meters of the Neretva river, 21 meters above the summer water level. The Halebija and Tara towers have always housed the guardians of the bridge and during Ottoman times were storehouses for ammunition.

Crossing from the west bank to the east you'll also be crossing the ancient point where East and West symbolically met. Up the stairs to the right is the oldest mosque in Mostar: the Cejvan Cehaj Mosque built in 1552. Later a medresa (Islamic school) was built on the same compound. The Old Bazaar, Kujundziluk is named after the goldsmiths who traditionally created and sold their wares on this street, it is the best place in town to find authentic paintings and copper or bronze carvings of the Stari Most, pomegranates (the natural symbol of Herzegovina) or the famed stecaks (medieval tombstones).

The Koski Mehmed pasa Mosque, built in 1617 is open to visitors. Visitors may enter the mosque and take photos free of charge. For those willing to bear the dizzy spiral to the top, the minaret is also open to the public and is accessible from inside the mosque. The view speaks for itself! Just around the corner from the mosque is the Tepa Market. This has been a busy marketplace since Ottoman times. It now sells mostly fresh produce grown in Herzegovina. When in season, the figs and pomegranates can't be beaten. Be sure to look for local honey, organically produced in sunny villages all over Herzegovina.

Kriva cuprija is a stone one-arch bridge of small dimension and closely resembles the Stari Most. The arch is a perfect semicircle 8.56 m in width and 4.15 m in height. The frontage and vault are made of regular stone cubes incorporated into the horizontal layers all along the vault. The space between vault, frontal walls and footpath is filled with cracked stone. The bridge footpath and the approaching roads are paved with cobblestones, as is the case with the main roads in the town. Stone steps enable people to ascend to the bridge either side. A synagogue was also recently built in the city.

The Catholic Church, which was recently renovated, is nearly impossible to miss. A steeple of over 30 m dominates the skyline. The bishop's residence in Mostar marks the more recent Catholic traditions of the region and is built in the Viennese architecture that greatly added to the town's charm. The roundabout by the Rondo on the west side is home to the former Cultural Centre for the City of Mostar. It is now the Croatian Cultural Centre and certainly worth a peek inside. The Partisan Memorial Cemetery commemorates the fallen partisans. It is located off KP Kresimira IV Street on Bijeli Brijeg. This part of town is covered with lots of greenery and is also a nice place for a stroll with a great view of the city.

University of Mostar
Džemal Bijedić University
Pavarotti Music Center
United World College in Mostar
Gymnasium Mostar
"Gradska" Library (Rondo)
"Dječja i Narodna" Library (Carina)
Cultural Center Mostar (ul. Rade Bitange)
"Hrvatski dom Herceg Stjepan Kosače" cultural Center (Rondo)
Gallery "Aluminij" (near by hospital by building Uglovnica)
City Park "Zrinjski" (with a bronze statue Bruce Lee)
Narodno Pozorište (National theatre)

Tourism
Mostar is an important tourist centre in the country. Mostar International Airport serves the city. Mostar's old city is an important tourist destination with the Stari most being its most recognizable feature. The "Rondo shopping centre",and the "Mercator shopping mall" are some of the city's newer attractions. The Catholic pilgrimage site of Međugorje is also nearby.

Recreation and sports
The most popular sport in Mostar is football. The two most successful teams are NK Zrinjski Mostar and Velež Mostar. As of 2006 both teams compete in the Premier League of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Since the Bosnian War each club has generally been supported by a particular ethnic group (Zrinjski for the Croats and Velež for the Bosniaks). The matches between the two clubs are some of the country's most intense matches.

Bijeli Brijeg Stadium and Vrapčići are the city's two main football grounds.

In basketball HKK Zrinjski Mostar competes at the nation's highest level while the Zrinjski banner also represents the city in the top handball league.

preuzeto sa wikipedia.org